Those tiny white bumps on your face might look like whiteheads, but they may actually be milia.
Milia are small, harmless cysts that form just beneath the surface of the skin. They commonly appear around the eyes, eyelids, cheeks, nose and forehead and can occur in babies, children and adults.
Unlike whiteheads, milia aren't acne and they don't form because a pore is clogged with oil. They contain keratin, a protein naturally found in the skin.
So if you have milia, should you exfoliate them? Can moisturiser make them worse? Should you squeeze them? And what skincare should you use?
Here's what you need to know.
What Are Milia?
A single small cyst is called a milium. When there are multiple cysts, they're called milia.
They typically look like tiny, firm, pearly-white or yellowish bumps sitting just beneath the skin.
Milia are particularly common around the:
- Eyes and eyelids
- Cheeks
- Nose
- Forehead
They're generally harmless and don't necessarily require treatment. Primary milia may disappear by themselves, although in adults they can sometimes remain for months or longer.
What Causes Milia?
Milia form when keratin becomes trapped beneath the skin's surface.
There are several different types of milia, and the reason they develop isn't always the same.
Primary Milia
Primary milia can occur spontaneously in children and adults.
They're particularly common around the eyelids, cheeks and forehead and aren't necessarily caused by anything you've done to your skin.
Secondary Milia
Secondary or traumatic milia can develop following damage or trauma to the skin.
They have been associated with things including burns, blistering skin conditions and skin resurfacing procedures such as dermabrasion. Certain topical medications have also been associated with secondary milia.
This distinction is important because not every case of milia is caused by skincare.
Milia vs Whiteheads: What's the Difference?
This is one of the biggest areas of confusion.
A whitehead is a type of acne lesion that develops when a hair follicle becomes blocked with sebum and keratin.
A milium is a small keratin-containing cyst beneath the skin.
They can look similar, but they're not the same thing.
Milia often:
Feel firm
Look pearly white
Don't have obvious inflammation
Remain in the same place for weeks or months
Commonly occur around the eyes
Whiteheads often:
Develop within pores
May occur alongside other forms of congestion or breakouts
Can change or become inflamed
If you're unsure what a bump is, particularly around the delicate eye area, a dermatologist or other qualified healthcare professional can help identify it correctly.
Why Do I Get Milia Around My Eyes?
The eyelids and cheeks are among the most common places for primary milia to develop.
Because milia often occur around the eyes, people sometimes assume their eye cream or moisturiser must be responsible.
It's not necessarily that simple.
Milia can develop spontaneously. However, secondary milia can occur following skin damage, and some sources note that heavy creams or ointments may be associated with their formation in some people.
If you're prone to small bumps around the eye area, you may prefer lightweight skincare rather than continually layering heavy or highly occlusive products.
MILIA DOS
DO: Keep Your Skincare Routine Gentle
More isn't necessarily better.
If you're concerned about skin texture or bumps, it's tempting to cleanse aggressively or add multiple exfoliating products.
But over-cleansing can leave your skin feeling stripped, dry and uncomfortable.
Instead, build your routine around gentle cleansing, lightweight hydration and consistency.
If your skin is easily overwhelmed, read Using Active Skincare Without Compromising Your Skin Barrier.
DO: Choose Lightweight Skincare
If you're prone to congestion or simply don't like the feeling of heavy products, look for lightweight formulas that hydrate without leaving skin feeling excessively coated.
You don't need to avoid moisturiser because you have milia.
Hydration still plays an important role in maintaining a comfortable, healthy-looking skin barrier.
The key is finding a texture that works for your skin.
DO: Exfoliate Carefully
Chemical exfoliation can help remove built-up surface skin cells and improve the appearance of uneven texture.
But this doesn't mean you should try to scrub individual milia away.
AMPERNA® 10% Pro+ Resurfacing Lotion [EXFOLIATE] contains 10% glycolic acid and is designed to improve the appearance of skin texture as part of an evening skincare routine.
If you use exfoliating acids, introduce them gradually and avoid the delicate eye area unless a product has specifically been formulated for use there.
More exfoliation isn't necessarily better.
Read Using Active Skincare Without Compromising Your Skin Barrier.
DO: Protect Your Skin From the Sun
Daily sun protection is an important part of any skincare routine.
Sun exposure can affect the appearance and condition of the skin over time, and DermNet notes an association between excessive sun exposure and certain types of milia-like conditions.
AMPERNA® Pro+ Bio Soothing Day Mineral CC SPF15 [HYDRAPROTECT] combines daily mineral SPF15 protection with a lightweight moisturising formula containing zinc oxide, vitamin B5 and hyaluronic acid.
Always follow Australian sun protection recommendations and use an appropriate broad-spectrum sunscreen for your level and duration of sun exposure.
MILIA DON'TS
DON'T: Pick or Squeeze Milia
This is probably the most important rule.
Milia aren't pimples.
Trying to pop, scrape or squeeze them at home can damage the surrounding skin and increase the risk of irritation, infection or scarring.
Because a milium sits underneath a layer of skin, squeezing it like a whitehead often won't work anyway.
Professional removal can involve opening the surface with a sterile needle or blade and extracting the contents. This should be performed by an appropriately qualified professional rather than attempted in your bathroom mirror.
DON'T: Assume Every White Bump Is Milia
Whiteheads, closed comedones and milia can sometimes look similar.
Other skin bumps can resemble milia too.
If you're not sure what you're looking at, particularly if the bumps change, become painful, itchy, inflamed or persistent, seek professional advice.
DON'T: Over-Exfoliate
Seeing tiny bumps often triggers the instinct to exfoliate more.
Resist it.
Using acids too frequently, combining multiple exfoliants or physically scrubbing the skin can leave your skin barrier feeling dry, tight or sensitive.
Your goal should be:
SMOOTHER-LOOKING SKIN + A SUPPORTED SKIN BARRIER
Not:
EXFOLIATE UNTIL THE BUMPS DISAPPEAR
If your skin is already feeling tight, stinging or reactive, read Damaged Skin Barrier? Here's What to Do.
DON'T: Automatically Stop Moisturising
There's a common misconception that bumps mean your skin needs to be “dried out”.
It doesn't.
Your skin still needs hydration.
Instead of skipping moisturiser altogether, consider the texture and amount you're using.
A lightweight moisturiser may feel more comfortable than repeatedly layering rich, highly occlusive products.
Can Skincare Cause Milia?
This needs a little nuance.
Milia aren't simply “clogged pores”, so it isn't accurate to say that every case is caused by pore-clogging skincare.
Primary milia can appear spontaneously.
However, secondary milia can develop following damage to the skin, and heavy creams or ointments may be associated with milia in some circumstances.
If you notice bumps appearing after changing your routine, look at the whole routine rather than immediately blaming one ingredient.
Ask yourself:
Am I layering several heavy products?
Have I recently introduced multiple new products?
Am I over-exfoliating?
Am I using products around my eyes that weren't designed for that area?
Is my skin feeling congested, or is it actually dry and sensitised?
Sometimes simplifying your routine makes it much easier to understand what your skin does and doesn't like.
What About Slugging and Milia?
Slugging involves applying a highly occlusive layer, often petroleum jelly, over skincare to reduce moisture loss.
For some skin types, that can feel comfortable.
For others, particularly people who notice small bumps after using heavy or occlusive products, it may not be the ideal approach.
Rather than assuming everyone needs to slug, choose hydration based on what your own skin actually needs.
If you're prone to milia around your eyes, be particularly mindful of repeatedly layering heavy products over that area.
Can Retinol Help with Milia?
If milia are part of your skincare concerns, it may be tempting to scrub or exfoliate the area more aggressively. But more exfoliation isn't always better.
Retinoids can be another option for supporting skin renewal, smoother-looking texture and a more refined-looking complexion.
At AMPERNA®, we offer two different approaches depending on your skin and experience with active skincare.
NEW TO RETINOIDS OR WANT A GENTLER ALTERNATIVE?
Pro+ Bio Resurfacing Retinol ALT [SUPERADIANCE]
Our retinol alternative combines Bakuchiol with Niacinamide, an Azelaic Acid derivative, Liquorice Root Extract and AMPERNA®'s postbiotic technology.
Designed to support smoother, more even and radiant-looking skin without using a traditional retinoid.
READY FOR A RETINOID?
Pro+ Bio Resurfacing Retinol RX [SUPERFOLIATE]
Our advanced retinoid formula features Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) alongside Niacinamide, an Azelaic Acid derivative, Liquorice Root Extract and AMPERNA®'s postbiotic technology.
Designed for those looking to support skin renewal, visible texture and a smoother, more radiant-looking complexion.
WHICH ONE SHOULD I CHOOSE?
RETINOL ALT → A retinol alternative for those wanting a gentler approach or who aren't ready for a traditional retinoid.
RETINOL RX → An advanced retinoid option for those ready to introduce HPR into their routine.
Whichever you choose, introduce active skincare gradually and avoid the temptation to layer multiple exfoliating or resurfacing products at once.
Your skin barrier still matters.
Read: Using Active Skincare Without Compromising Your Skin Barrier →
What Is the Best Skincare Routine for Milia-Prone Skin?
There isn't one skincare routine that will prevent or remove milia for everyone.
But if you prefer lightweight skincare and want to support smooth, hydrated, healthy-looking skin, keep your routine simple.
MORNING
CLEANSE → SUPPORT → HYDRATE → PROTECT
Use a gentle cleanser, follow with lightweight supportive skincare and finish with appropriate sun protection.
EVENING
CLEANSE → SUPPORT → HYDRATE
If you're introducing an exfoliating acid or other active, do so gradually rather than layering multiple intensive ingredients at once.
KEEP YOUR DAILY ROUTINE SIMPLE
For everyday skincare, AMPERNA®'s Daily Essential Edit brings your core steps together into one straightforward routine.
Designed around our barrier-first philosophy, it's an easy way to cleanse, support and hydrate without building an unnecessarily complicated skincare routine.
DISCOVER THE DAILY ESSENTIAL EDIT →
For daytime, finish with Pro+ Bio Soothing Day Mineral CC SPF15 [HYDRAPROTECT]
NEED A LIGHTWEIGHT HYDRATION BOOST?
AMPERNA® Pro+ SOS Daily Facial Spray [SUPACALM] is a lightweight facial mist formulated with pre + postbiotic ingredients, niacinamide and provitamin B5.
It can be used as part of your morning or evening routine or throughout the day when your skin needs a refreshing hydration boost.
LIGHTWEIGHT. REFRESHING. EASY TO LAYER.
When Should You See a Dermatologist About Milia?
Milia are generally harmless and often don't need treatment.
However, if you're unsure whether the bumps you're seeing are actually milia, they've persisted and are bothering you, or you'd like them removed, speak with a dermatologist or other appropriately qualified healthcare professional.
Professional options may include extraction, cryotherapy and other procedures depending on the type and extent of the milia.
Don't attempt professional-style extraction yourself.
Frequently Asked Questions About Milia
What causes milia on the face?
Milia form when keratin becomes trapped in a small cyst beneath the skin. Primary milia can develop spontaneously, while secondary milia can occur following skin injury or damage.
Are milia the same as whiteheads?
No. Although they can look similar, milia are small keratin-containing cysts beneath the skin. Whiteheads are closed comedones associated with blocked hair follicles.
Can moisturiser cause milia?
It's too simplistic to say moisturiser causes milia. Primary milia can occur without an obvious trigger. However, heavy creams or ointments may be associated with secondary milia in some people.
Should I exfoliate milia?
Adults may use exfoliating skincare as part of their general routine, but milia shouldn't be aggressively scrubbed or picked. If you use exfoliating acids, introduce them gradually and follow the product directions.
Can you pop milia?
You shouldn't try to pop or scrape milia yourself. Because they're small cysts beneath the skin rather than pimples, attempting to extract them at home can damage the surrounding skin and may lead to infection or scarring.
Do milia go away on their own?
They can. Primary milia may disappear within weeks, although some can persist for months or longer.
Why do I keep getting milia around my eyes?
The eyelids and cheeks are naturally common sites for primary milia. Recurring bumps around the eyes aren't necessarily caused by skincare, so persistent concerns are worth discussing with a dermatologist.
How are milia professionally removed?
A healthcare professional may remove individual milia by opening the surface with a sterile needle or blade and extracting the contents. Other professional options can include cryotherapy and, for more extensive cases, other dermatological procedures.
The Bottom Line
Milia are small, harmless keratin-filled cysts, not pimples.
So the answer isn't to squeeze them, scrub harder or continually add stronger skincare.
For your everyday routine, focus on:
GENTLE CLEANSING → LIGHTWEIGHT HYDRATION → CONSIDERED ACTIVES → DAILY SUN PROTECTION
And if persistent milia bother you, have them properly assessed rather than trying to extract them yourself.
At AMPERNA®, we believe in supporting your skin rather than overwhelming it.
AMPERNA® products are cosmetic only and are not intended to treat, cure or prevent milia or any other disease or skin condition. If you're concerned about your skin, seek advice from a qualified healthcare professional.
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