Our skin is made up of 3 main layers
The Epidermis
The skin you can see is called the epidermis. This protects the more delicate inner layers. The epidermis is made up of several ‘sheets’ of cells. The bottom sheet are where new epidermal cells are made. As old, dead skin cells are sloughed off the surface, new ones are pushed up to replace them. The epidermis also contains melanin, the pigment that gives skin its colour.
The Dermis
Under the epidermis is the dermis. This is made up of elastic fibres (elastin) for suppleness and protein fibres (collagen) for strength. The dermis contains sweat glands, sebaceous glands, hair follicles, blood vessels and nerves.
The Subcutis
The subcutis is a layer of fat that sits immediately under the dermis. It provides thermal insulation and mechanical protection. It gives smoothness and contour to our body. Adipose fat stored in the subcutis is a source of energy.
What is your skin barrier and what purpose does it serve?
It may not look like it on the surface, but your skin is constantly hard at work; the toughest job is of the uppermost layer, the skin barrier. Much like a security guard for your skin, the barrier is there to stop potential problems passing through and to protect what lies within.
The skin barrier consists of cells and lipids (fats). Also known as the permeability barrier, moisture barrier, or lipid barrier, the skin barrier is responsible for making sure essential water and electrolytes don’t evaporate from the skin. It also helps sustain our skin’s immunity, and regulate inflammation.
It’s the weakening of this skin shield that is the underlying cause of sensitive skin. A thin, weak, or damaged skin barrier allows irritants in, or irritates more easily.
If your skin barrier is damaged, then that is when you can experience redness, irritation, breakouts, rashes, burning sensations, broken capillaries, dryness, tightness, and other symptoms you’d attribute to having sensitive skin.
What can damage your skin barrier?
Some of the external and internal conditions that can affect your skin barrier include:
- Allergens, irritants, and pollutants
- Too much sun exposure
- Harsh detergents, chemicals, and soaps
- Over-exfoliation or over-cleansing
- Topical &/ oral steroids
- Age - As you get older, your skin barrier function naturally weakens.
- Environmental Stress
- Smoking
- Using sensitising ingredients - Artificial fragrances, colourants, SD alcohol, and preservatives may trigger skin sensitivity.
- Cosmetic procedures - Laser resurfacing and other methods used to remove the top layer of skin can damage the skin barrier if not performed properly.
How can you tell if your skin barrier is damaged?
When your skin barrier is not functioning properly, you may be more prone to developing the following skin symptoms:
- dry, scaly skin
- itchiness
- rough or discoloured patches
- acne
- sensitive or inflamed areas
- bacterial, viral, or fungal skin infections
How to protect and restore your skin barrier
Back to basics
Overcomplicated skincare routines are just asking for trouble - keep it simple for effective, nurturing skincare.
Paring back your routine is key especially when your skin barrier is compromised. Stop using products with astringents, like alcohol and witch hazel. Avoid foaming cleansers, and cease using actives while your sin barrier is fragile.
No scrubbing
We recommend cutting right back on physical exfoliation or face scrubbing tools. Many people are using brushes and cleansing cloths too harsh for their skin-type and developing problems consequently.
The right products and ingredients matter
As always with sensitive skin concerns, reading the labels of your products is a must to make sure you are getting the building blocks your skin needs.
Our Probiotic+ DS Soothing Serum is a deeply restorative formula which cools and helps soothe irritated skin and calm redness. The copper and zinc gluconates help to limit the spread of harmful bacteria and replenish the skin barrier. It is our best-selling product for a reason.
Try moisturisers containing hyaluronic acid, petrolatum, glycerine or urea. An occlusive moisturiser which includes these humectants aids the skin barrier by reducing the amount of water loss from your skin. These ingredients leave a thin film on your skin that helps to hold in moisture.
Our Lightweight Soothing Emulsion is a lightweight cationic moisturiser which contains a probiotic, ceramides, hyaluronic acid and emollients to help nourish the skin and protect it from free radical damage.
Pay attention to pH
Your skin’s delicate acid mantle hovers around a pH of 5.7. But the pH of some skin products can range from 3.7, all the way up to 8.2. Researchers recommend cleansing with a product that’s close to your skin’s natural pH.
Look for formulations that include ceramides
Ceramides are waxy lipids and are crucial for the healthy functioning of your skin barrier. Products containing ceramides may help improve the dryness, itchiness, and scaling caused by a poorly functioning barrier. Ceramide-rich moisturisers may also strengthen the structural integrity of your skin barrier. Ceramide moisturisers may be especially helpful if you have acne. In acne-prone skin, the barrier is often impaired, and acne treatments can leave skin dry and reddened.
Keep it cool
Cleanse your face with cool water and not directly under the hot shower. Hot water and long showers or baths removes natural oils from your skin and will only strip the skin.
Wear sunscreen
One of the easiest ways to protect your skin’s barrier is by wearing a daily SPF- but just like the rest of your skincare, it should be full of antioxidants too so that as well as defending your skin against the sun’s damaging rays, it also adds protection from other environmental stressors.
References:
Skin explained - Better Health Channel
Skin Barrier Function and How to Repair and Care for It (healthline.com)
Understanding Your Skin Barrier (and how to keep it healthy) (beverlyhillsmd.com)
