Alcohol can be found in everyday products from shampoos, moisturisers, face masks, toners, sunscreen and make up.
Alcohol is used in skincare for a few key reasons, but its purpose can vary depending on the type of alcohol and the specific product.
There are two main categories of alcohol used in skincare:
1. Good Alcohols (Fatty Alcohols)
These alcohols are typically derived from natural fats, like plant oils and are generally more hydrating and beneficial for the skin. They tend to be gentle and provide moisture by helping to smooth and soften the skin. Some common fatty alcohols are:
- Cetyl Alcohol
- Stearyl Alcohol
- Cetearyl Alcohol
- Lanolin Alcohol
These alcohols act as emulsifiers (helping to mix oil and water) or thickeners in formulas, and they help improve the texture of creams and lotions.
2. Drying Alcohols (Simple Alcohols)
These alcohols are often used as solvents or preservatives in skincare products. They can evaporate quickly, giving products a light feel, but they can also be drying or irritating, especially for people with sensitive or dry skin. Some examples of drying alcohols are:
- Alcohol Denat (Denatured Alcohol)
- Ethanol
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Methanol
Why these alcohols are used in skincare
Solvent
Alcohol is an effective solvent, meaning it helps dissolve and mix other ingredients in the product. This makes alcohol essential in products like serums or spot treatments that contain active ingredients (like salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide). It helps these actives penetrate the skin more effectively.
Cleansing
Alcohol evaporates quickly when applied to the skin, which is why it is often used in toners, makeup remover and other astringents to give a fast drying, refreshing feel. This can cause the skin irritation and dry it out.
Antibacterial
Alcohol is a great antibacterial ingredient which is why it is often used in hand sanitisers, first aid swabs and home cleaning products. It can also be beneficial to the skin as it reduces bacterial growth.
Preservative
Some alcohols, like denatured alcohol are used to help preserve the shelf life of a product by preventing the growth of bacteria, mold, or other microbes. In products that do not contain preservatives, alcohol acts as a safeguard to ensure that the product remains safe to use.
Consistency
Alcohol can be used in skincare products as a thinning agent, allowing the product to be applied evenly and smoothly to the skin.
Penetration
In some formulations, alcohol is used to boost the absorption of other active ingredients into the skin. By breaking down the skin's barrier slightly, alcohol can help active ingredients penetrate deeper and work more effectively. This is why you might find alcohol in products aimed at delivering stronger ingredients like vitamin C, retinol, or alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs).
While alcohol used in skincare products serves a purposes, its use is not always ideal for every skin type. Dry, sensitive, or acne-prone skin may react negatively to alcohol, as it can cause dehydration, irritation, or a disrupted skin barrier if used too frequently or in high concentrations.
It is important to choose products with alcohol thoughtfully based on your skin’s needs!
Which alcohols are best to avoid?
Not all alcohols used in skincare products are bad, some are great for your skin. However, many that are evaporative alcohols like SD alcohol 40, isopropyl, denature and ethanol all have a drying effect to the skin.
Your skin should never feel dry, aggravated or tight after using a cleanser, for example. If it does, it is likely due to the ingredients used in the product and the type of alcohol and its concentration in the formulation.
Astringent alcohols as well as methanol and benzyl alcohol can lead to increased irritation and dryness for people with already inflamed or sensitive skin. It can also make oily skin worse.
Disruption to your skin’s microbiome effects the way your skin regenerates and renews itself.
Generally, if you do not need to use a product front-loaded with alcohol such as an astringent toner, you are best to skip it from your routine all together.
TIP: The higher the alcohol is on the ingredients list the higher the concentration will be in the product.
If I have Rosacea, should I avoid alcohol in skincare products?
Yes, according to the National Rosacea Society, astringent alcohols, along with methanol and benzyl alcohol, may cause dryness and irritate the skin. These types of alcohol can be irritating and drying, which may trigger rosacea flare-ups and worsen redness or inflammation. They can strip the skin’s natural moisture barrier, making it more sensitive and prone to irritation, which is already a concern for rosacea-prone skin.
However, not all alcohols are problematic for rosacea. Fatty alcohols like cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and cetearyl alcohol are generally considered safe for rosacea, as they are moisturizing and help to thicken or stabilize products without causing dryness or irritation.
Acne prone skin and Alcohol in Skincare products?
According to the American Academy of Dermatology, acne prone skin is usually oily. So, it is tempting and has been said to use astringent products (containing alcohol) to dry out the skin.
But dry skin is irritated skin and there is some evidence to suggest that it may disrupt the natural oil production of the skin. This may result in an overproduction of oil and sebum, which means you run into the risk of producing more acne.
If you have acne, it is usually best to avoid drying alcohols in skincare products. Instead, focus on gentle, hydrating, and non-comedogenic products that will not strip the skin of moisture or irritate it. However, if you do use alcohol-based products (like toners or spot treatments), make sure they are balanced with hydrating ingredients and are used in moderation.
Perioral Dermatitis or Eczema and Alcohol in Skincare?
For both perioral dermatitis and eczema, it is best to avoid drying alcohols and opt for gentle, alcohol-free products that help nourish and repair your skin barrier. Always choose soothing, hydrating formulas to prevent flare-ups and maintain healthy, calm skin.
As always, patch-test new products and, if you are unsure, consult a dermatologist who can recommend the best products tailored to your skin's needs.
References:
Is Alcohol in Skincare Bad? We Asked Dermatolgists (byrdie.com)
Alcohol in Skin Care: The Facts | Paula's Choice (paulaschoice.com)
